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Sequence – Part 8 Stage 8 – GRP body panels, Dash Panel, Boot panel, Storage Box
& Petrol Cap Bonnet, Nose Cone, Scuttle & Front Grill Although the panels are
supplied trimmed, some extra minor re-trimming will be necessary to achieve a
good fit. Make sure that you wear a face-mask and safety glasses when sanding,
cutting or drilling GRP. 1) Start by fitting the nose cone. Locate this moulding
tight up against the front of the chassis, check for any obstructions, then mark
through the position of two holes in the top lugs. Drill through 6.5mm and countersink.
(Remember that old drill bits are better than new ones when drilling GRP). Fig.
1 Fig. 2 2) Fit the nose cone using two M6 countersunk bolts, and then move to
the underside front edge. This will require two small angle brackets, fitted to
the cone with M5 bolts & nuts, and two M5 Rivet-nuts in the chassis. This method
will allow easy removal for access latter. 3) Before fitting the bonnet you will
need to loose fit the scuttle panel. Start by bending up an aluminium cover for
the steering column. Rivet this in place and seal with silicon. (See Fig. 3) Fig.
3 Fig. 4 4) Mark and cut a notch around the column cover and the column mounting
brackets. Fit the scuttle loosely in place. 5) Check the front and rear bonnet
edges for excess GRP, and trim away if necessary, to achieve a fairly constant
edge thickness, and a parallel gap between bonnet/scuttle and bonnet/nose cone.
Cut two lengths of rubber edging, approx 20mm over-length. Wipe the inside of
the trim and the edges of the bonnet with methylated spirits. Fit the rubber edging
using adhesive, and trim to suit. (Upholstery/carpet spray glue works quite well,
when sprayed into a container, and then applied to the rubber edging with a small
stiff brush) Fig. 5 Fig. 6 6) Make a card or thin plywood template* to fit over
the exhaust manifold pipe-work. Using two pieces of tape, mark the position of
each end of this template on the chassis tube. Remove the exhaust manifold, and
fit the bonnet. * If you are using a Pinto engine then Luego can supply this part
pre-cut. They can also make specials to your supplied dimensions. This part will
be supplied with the vertical legs over-length; trim these back to give 6mm clearance
at the top, and use this as your template, and the same technique for positioning
etc. Fig. 7 Fig. 8 7) Determine a final position for the scuttle to suit the bonnet.
Clamp the scuttle in place, mark the positions of the existing M5 rivet-nuts,
remove and drill these 8.5mm. Mark three extra holes on each side, drill to clear
the head of an M6 rivet-nut. Reposition the scuttle, mark these extra holes, drill
and fit M6 rivet-nuts. 8) Fit the scuttle using allen cap-head screws, and oversize
washers. With limited access these will be easier to tighten. Fig. 9 9) Adjust
the bonnet and tape the template in place, aligned with marks. Mark around the
inside the template, remove the bonnet, protect the surrounding edges with Duct
tape or similar, and cut out the profile, using a fine toothed jigsaw, keeping
just inside the line. 10) Re-fit the bonnet and fine-tune the cut-out over the
manifold. Dress any exposed sharp edges to a full 2.5mm radius 11) Using the same
template make an aluminium or stainless steel liner, about 22mm wide, for the
hole. Bend to match bonnet curvature, drill and pop-rivet this in place. Trim
the hole to match. Using masking tape, mark a centre-line for each bonnet latch,
starting at the position nearest to the exhaust cut-out, and matching this distance
to the other three locations. Fig. 10 Fig. 11 12) Hold a latch, with the bottom
edge aligned with the bottom ledge of the bonnet, and mark through the two holes.
Drill one of each 4mm, and then remove the tape. Fix each catch using one 4mm
pop rivet, check the alignment, drill the other hole and then rivet in place.
Note: When drilling these holes make sure that the area behind the bonnet is clear.
If you are not sure, remove the bonnet before drilling the holes. 13) Make sure
that the bonnet is fully down, and correctly located, using Duct tape, if required,
to hold this position. Hang a catch, in its closed position, on the bonnet latch,
and mark through one hole onto masking tape on the side panel. Lower the hole
centre by approx 2mm, drill through and rivet in place. Check the catch operation
and alignment, drill through the other two holes, and rivet in place. Note: When
drilling these holes make sure that the area behind the panel is clear. 14) If
desired the bonnet can be additionally located using 4 conical studs and matching
holes. (Pictures & text to follow …..) Fig. 12 15) Cover the inside of the vent
with aluminium mesh, secured with silicone or similar. Front Grill 1) Remove the
nose cone, and place the grill onto the upturned moulding. Use masking tape, and
mark the centre positions for each of the four cross bar ends. Fig. 1 Fig. 2 2)
Transfer the centre lines to the flange and mark out slots to suit for the four
tubes. Cut out the slots using a fine tooth saw, remove the tape, and clean up
the slots 3) Bend back two of the fixing tags on the grill to clear the slots.
Slide the other two under the flange, and push into place. Fig. 3 Fig. 4 4) Turn
the moulding over and straighten the bent tags. Use M4 bolts and spacers to fix
the grill, or bend the tags to hold it in place. (Fig. 4) 5) To protect the radiator
from stone damage etc, it is advisable to fix aluminium mesh behind the grill.
Start by making a card template, and optionally a simple wooden former to add
an 8mm flange to the edges, for extra rigidity. (Fig. 5) Fig. 5 Fig. 6 6) Fix
the mesh with 3mm pop-rivets, and penny washers, drilled into the grill uprights.
(Fig. 6) Fig. 7 Fig. 8 7) Protect the exposed edges of the tubes with self-adhesive
rubber trim (SVA) (Fig.8) Front Wings 1) Remove both front wheels. Lower the car
back down onto blocks placed under the wishbones, which will raise the suspension
slightly, then remove the O/S & N/S bottom swivel nuts and top upright pinch bolts.
You can do this with the wheels fitted, but access is very restricted. 2) Fit
each front wing bracket, feeding them through the wish-bones. Re-fit the swivel
nut, and pinch bolt*. (If necessary make a small adjustment to the brake hoses,
and re-bleed front brakes). * You may find it easier to drill the upright pinch
bolt hole right through, removing the threads, and then use an M12 bolt & Nyloc
nut. 3) Replace the front wheels, and then, using a suitable block of wood, bend
the wing support arms over the front tyres. The material is fairly easy to bend,
and will require two or three separate bends. 4) Remove the brackets, drill two
6.5mm holes in each leg for wing mounting bolts, and then send these back to Luego
for powder coating. (Take care to match the hole centres on all four legs.) Fig.1a
Fig. 1b 5) Edge both the front wings with rubber trim, glued in place, with the
joint on the inside edge or at the bottom. 6) Lay each wing on top of wing bars,
determine a lateral position over the centre of the tyre (Fig. 3), and a radial
position as shown in Fig. 2. Mark this position on the bars, and mark the bar
positions on the wing using tape. This may not be the best position from a styling
point of view, but it does meet the SVA requirement. Fig. 2 7) Remove the front
wheels and align the wings. Mark the holes centres through, onto the underside
of the wing, and drill a small pilot hole from the inside. Open out this hole
to 6.5mm from on top, taking care not the chip the gel coat on the way through.
Fig. 3 Fig. 4 8) To fix the wings to the bars, use dome headed M6 stainless bolts
and nuts, with a soft washer on both sides of the GRP (thin slices of petrol pipe
work quite well). Add plastic spacing tubes on top of the bars to obtain the correct
offset to the tyre. Dry fit the rubber trim, aligning the join with the centre
of the lower support bar. Glue in place, notching around the bars if required.
9) Fix (glue) rubber trim (SVA) over the exposed ends of the four support bars.
(Fig. 5) Fig. 5 Dashboard 1) Remove the scuttle, and dress up the inside edge
of the flange. 2) Place the dash panel over the flange, and align all edges. Trim
away any surplus material, to allow the dash to fit inside the scuttle, tight
against the flange. Fig. 1 3) Apply masking tape around the flange, then using
a pencil compass or similar, scribe a curve with an offset of 12-14mm to the inside
edge. Find the centre of the scuttle, and again using a pencil compass, mark out
22 equally spaced holes, (at approx 63mm centres) along this curve, with the first
pair equally spaced each side of the centre mark. Check the position of the last
hole, and if necessary, rub out the marks, adjust the spacing, and repeat the
process. Drill each of these holes 4.2mm. (Fig.1) 4) Align the dash panel inside,
the scuttle and clamp in position. Drill through the first hole on one side, and
fit an M4 screw and nut, and repeat every 5 or 6 holes. Finally drill through
all the remaining holes. 5) For the final fit you could use 4mm pop-rivets, but
if you wish to make it removable then countersink the holes and use 4mm c/sunk
stainless allen screws. To remove the sharp edge, sandwich rubber tadpole trim
in between the dash and scuttle. (Fig 3b) 6) Remove the dash and re-fit the scuttle
in the car using a couple of bolts. Make a thin plywood copy of the driver’s side
of the dash. Use this template to determine the cut out for the steering column
and the ignition key, allowing clearance for the rubber edge trim. (Fig. 2). You
may find that you need to pull the steering column outward to clear the dash.
Make this adjustment by loosening the pinch bolt on the bolting flange and the
connection at the downlink. You may also need to re-position the lower bush as
a part of this adjustment. If you have an adjustable steering column then this
is much easier job. 7) When you are happy with the fit, transfer this shape onto
the back of the dash panel and cut out, using a fine tooth jigsaw. Fit the dash
and make any final adjustments to the fit. (Fig.3) Fig. 2 Fig. 3 8) Dry fit the
rubber edge trim, using 45 deg mitres at the sharp corners, then glue in place.
Fig. 3a Fig. 3b Rear panel The rear panel is a tight fitting part, and needs some
preparatory work. 1) Dress the underside of the top lip, to give a constant depth
of between 8mm and 10mm (Fig. 1), use masking tape as a guide if preferred. Dress
a 4mm chamfer on the two rear chassis corners (Fig. 2). Paint the bare edges with
a rust preventing primer. Fig. 1 Fig. 2 2) Mark and drill three 4mm holes just
over the crest of the top radius on the N/S and O/S corners (Fig3a), lightly countersink
both sides of each hole by hand. Cut a slot to the centre of each hole using a
junior hacksaw. Repeat this process on the underside O/S (Fig 3b). Add two extra
slots on the N/S underside (Fig 3c). These slots will allow the panel to flex,
and the 4mm holes should prevent the panel from cracking. Fig. 3a (O/S & N/S)
Fig 3b (O/S) Fig. 3c (N/S fitted) 3) Fit the O/S edge first, and work your way
around to the N/S edge, pushing the top lip over the top chassis tube as you go.
(Fig. 4) Fig. 4 Fig .5 (trimming point) 4) To achieve a final fit you may need
to trim back the top to ends of the top lip, where they meet the chassis, adjacent
to the roll bar. If you are careful, this can be done in place, using a junior
hacksaw. (Fig. 5) 5) When you are happy with the overall fit, remove the panel
and run a bead of silicone along the bottom edge of the chassis. Refit the panel,
and hold in position with soft face clamps. (Do not over-tighten) Fig. 6a Fig.
6b 6) Apply a clamp, and put a couple of 4mm rivets in both ends of the top lip,
one in each top corner and two in the bottom front edges. Note: the rear wing
needs to cover these two lower rivets (Fig 7c). Drill and rivet the two angled
inner edges to the round chassis tube, using 4mm rivets at approx 100mm centres.
Fig 7a Fig 7b Fig. 7c Fig. 7d 7) Drill and rivet the underside edge at approx
100mm centres in the same manner. The remaining top edge can be left until after
the boot lid panel is fitted. The boot lid panel will also cover the slots in
Fig3a. Fig. 7e 8) Finally, apply a bead of silicon down the inside of each of
the round chassis tubes. Fig. 8 Rear wings The rear wings are fitted using bolts,
making them easily removable for access and possible repairs. They can be fitted
either way round, the choice is yours to make. 1) Start by trimming the mounting
flanges. Scribe a pencil line about 35mm in from the outer edge, and cut off the
surplus using a fine-toothed jigsaw. (Fig.1) Fig.1 Fig.2 2) With the road wheel
fitted, offer up the wing, finding a central position, with the rear corner aligned
with the bottom of the back panel, and the front corner aligned with the bottom
of the chassis. With the wing in this position, check that top centre overlaps
the chassis, adjacent to the roll bar mounting, and if necessary raise the wing
slightly. Mark this position at the top and on the rear panel. (Fig. 2), then
remove the road wheel. 3) Drill a 5mm hole in the centre of each side of the mounting
flange, 50mm up from the bottom corner. Offer up the wing and mark the position
of rear hole on the back panel. Drill this hole 5.5mm, and fit the wing with a
temporary M4 nut, bolt and washers. (Fig. 3). Do the same with the front corner.
This will locate the wing whilst the other positions are marked. Fig. 3 4) You
will need five or six fixings around the flange. Look inside the wing and mark
these positions, avoiding any problem areas. Transfer these markings to the back
of the flange and drill all holes 5mm at this stage (Fig 4). See Figs. 5 & 6 below
for the preferred positions, with three or four on the back panel, two in the
chassis arch, and two in the side panel. Fig. 4 (showing hole positions and areas
to avoid) 5) Offer up the wing and replace the temporary bolts. Check and mark
the holes onto the chassis and back panel. Correct any badly positioned holes
if necessary. Fig. 5 6) Drill the holes in the back panel 7.5mm, then drill and
fit M6 rivet nuts in the chassis and side panel. (Fig. 6) Fig. 6 7) Open up all
the flange holes to 7.5mm. Apply glue to the flange, clean the rubber tadpole
beading with white spirit, dry off and stick in place, keeping the round bead
tight against the outer edge of the wing. Leave these slightly over length, then
when the glue is dry cut to length and cut out the holes using a craft knife.
Fig. 7 8) Fit the wing using oversize ‘penny’ washers and M6 x 25 bolts, using
a washer on both sides of the rear panel fixings. Fig. 8 Boot Panel, Storage box
& Petrol cap The boot panel is needs to be removable for access and maintenance.
The 4 main parts can be fabricated from exterior grade 6mm plywood, or purchased
as pre-cut stainless steel parts from Luego. The fabricated method is described
below, but the fixing method would apply to both. To avoid fitting and removal
the final fixing could be left until after all the rear lighting is in place and
fully wired. The petrol cap can also fitted in the O/S boot panel, with details
for this given below. 1) Start with the two outer panels, which need to fit around
the roll bar. Make these slightly oversize, and begin by cutting out the ‘U’ shaped
notch and the corner notch. Allow sufficient clearance for vinyl cloth to be wrapped
around the edge. When you are happy with the fit, trim the outer edges to overlap
the crest of the GRP rear panel, covering the slots cut earlier. 2) Cut out a
simple rectangle for the centre panel, allowing for two layers of vinyl cloth
at the junctions with the outer panels. Fig. 1 3) The boot lid, when open, needs
to clear the roll bar tubes. Mark out a rectangle on the centre panel: 520mm x
260mm, approx 55mm in from the rear edge. Round corners will make the trimming
easier and neater. Carefully cut out the centre with a fine tooth jigsaw, and
then clean up both edges to give an approx. 4-5mm gap between the parts. Test
the fit using scraps of vinyl cloth. Fig. 2 4) The panels will need support, so
glue and pin some 20mm x 8mm wooden strips on the underside. The strips on the
centre panel will also be used to attach the lid support, detailed below. Before
fitting the strips check for obstructions inside the rear of the car. Fig. 3 5)
At this stage, paint both sides of the panels with two coats of a waterproof sealer,
such as Quick Drying Varnish. This will protect the wood, and help the glue to
stick. When the varnish is dry, lightly sand the show surfaces of each panel.
6) Cut out the vinyl cloth to overlap each part by about 25-30mm all round. Apply
spray glue to both surfaces, and the overlap areas on the back of each panel.
Press together, smooth the surface, and fold over the edges, stretching the cloth
slightly as you go. Use a sharp knife to cut slits at the internal corners, and
‘V’ notches at all external corners of the overlapping edges to get them to fold
over neatly. If in any doubt, practice on a scrap part first to perfect your technique.
The boot panel will need cloth on both sides, where the outside cloth needs to
overlap, and the inside cloth needs to be cut to a shape that fits 3-4mm inside
the outer profile. Keep your work surfaces clean throughout; any unwanted glue
can normally be removed with White Spirit, test before use, or check details on
the spray can. Fig.4 (showing overlap) Fig.5 (dry test fit) 7) Cut out a 6mm ply
rectangle to match the outside dimensions of the battens on the back of the centre
panel. Cut a rectangular hole in this panel, 18mm smaller all round than the boot
lid opening (Fig 5a). Seal with two coats of varnish, allow to dry, and then drill
and wood screw this panel to the battens at approx 85mm centres (Fig. 5b) Fig.
5a Fig. 5b 8) Using 6mm external ply make up an optional removable storage box,
185mm deep x 2mm smaller all round than the hole in the lower centre panel shown
in Fig. 5b. The box will require a 115mm x 50 mm step on the O/S to clear the
petrol filler pipe. Pin and glue the parts together, and then seal inside and
out with two coats of varnish, lightly sand between coats. Fig. 6 9) Line the
inside of the box with vinyl and/or carpet, and then fit two lifting handles or
ring plates (from your local hardware store). Woodscrew 15mm x 15mm aluminium
angle around the top inside edge of the box, notching the corners of the two ends
to provide a continuous outer edge. This will act as a top flange and a seal support.
Fig. 7 10) Glue a 10mm deep, tubular, closed cell neoprene sponge seal (Coach
Trimming Supplies part No. S16 or similar) around the top trimmed edge of the
box, with mitred and glued corners. This will seal and support the boot lid panel.
Fig. 8 11) Return to the boot lid panel, adding a lock at the front (Coach Trimming
Supplies part No. 319 or similar) and two surface mounted hinges or latching plates
to the rear edge. You may also need to fit a latching plate for the lock, on the
centre panel, if the lever is too short. If you choose any other type of hinge,
you may need to adjust the lid design to suit. Fig. 9 Fig. 10 Fig. 11 (showing
tadpole beading) 12) Check for possible obstructions, then mark and drill a hole
in the O/S panel to suit the petrol cap. Seal the cut edges, using 2 coats of
varnish and then fit the cap using the supplied fitting bolts. Use a jubilee clip
to connect one end of a 50mm I/D flexible petrol hose, approx 375mm long, to the
petrol tank filler neck. Fit the panel onto the car, hold in a raised position,
and connect the other end of the flexible pipe to the cap filler neck, using another
jubilee clip. (Fig 10) Fig. 12 13) The final job is to pre-drill the holes in
each panel, having marked each hole at about 115 -140mm centres, avoiding any
existing rivets. Fit the panels using 20 off No8 x25mm stainless steel self-tapping
screws and cup washers, using rubber tadpole beading, cut down to 25mm wide, in-between.
A small drop of oil on the threads of the self-tappers will make fitting a lot
easier. Note: You may prefer to fit and wire the rear lights before fitting these
screws. (see Part 10) |
